Staples differ in two things: wire thickness and shape. Thickness sets how rigid the seam is, shape decides how the load is spread.
Thickness
- 0.6 mm — thin plastic up to 3 mm: housings, headlights, covers, small parts. The seam is springier and the staple does not tear the edge.
- 0.8 mm — thick, loaded plastic: bumpers, tanks, mounts. It holds better but can deform a thin part.
Shape by crack type
- Wave — long straight and curved cracks. The most versatile shape: more contact points with the plastic.
- Small and fine wave — short cracks, tight spots, areas near mounts.
- M-shaped — outside corners where you cannot reach the seam from behind.
- L-shaped — inside corners and stiffening ribs.
- Flat and 90° corner staples — right-angle joints, mount repairs.
- S-shaped — arcs where the seam needs a little give.
How many staples you need
Work from a 10–15 mm spacing: crack length in centimetres divided by 1.25 gives the rough count. Add 30 % for a curve. Every staple page has a calculator — enter the crack length and it shows both the count and the pack you need.
Why stainless steel
The staple stays inside the part for good. Ordinary steel rusts in the seam, swells and pushes the plastic apart, so the crack returns along the staple edge. Stainless steel keeps its volume and does not stain the plastic, so the seam lasts as long as the part.
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